I would like to thank these brave souls for pioneering this effort and posting their work on the web.  Each of these sites has been a valuable reference.  Also, I have been amazed with the warm welcome and well wishes I've received from these members of the Farscape community.  Farscape fans may be the greatest people on Earth.
 

My vision may be a bold one.  But, with a little patience and perseverance, it may pay-off.  I intend to create a model of the Peacekeeper Pulse pistol, mold it, and cast several copies.  These copies are not intended for sale, merely as accessories to my costume and as possible party prizes.  Also, part of the PK pistol that eludes my knowledge is the cylindrical object to the right of the chamber.  I'm not sure what purpose this serves in the Uncharted Territories, but I intend to turn it into a working laser-sight.  Cool or what?
 

• The Gun
  Gun Layout
  Gun Assembly
  Gun Sanding
  Gun Painting
  Gun Molding
• Holster
• Comm Badges
• Outfits (PK Vest and Zhaan's)

Materials Used:

• Wood (a high-quality softwood with few knots)
• Dremel^TM rotary tool (with cutting depth guide, cutting bits, and sanding bits)
• Scroll Saw
• Palm Sander
• Sand Paper
• Mini Bar Clamps
• Wood Glue
• Wood Putty/Filler
• Paint Brush
• Wood Sealer
• Spray Paint
• ...and coming soon
• Latex Mold Material
• Resin Casting Compound
• Pen Laser
• AAA Battery holder
• Small Trigger
• Electric Wires

I started out with a few scraps of pine trim board.  This trim was recently used to frame an attic access in the garage.  I thought the quality of the wood would be perfect to give the gun a smooth finish but still maintain strength.  I contemplated using balsa wood, but the lack of availability (block sized) in my area and the potential weakness changed my mind.

To prepare the wood I glued the boards side-by-side and clamped them for a few hours with bar-clamps.  I then printed out some of Matt's reference pictures to a full-sheet of 8.5x11 paper.  I blew up the pictures to what I thought was a good size.  I realize that my gun will be a bit larger than others, but this was to accomplish a couple things:

• My hands are not standard Peacekeeper issue.  Being a healthy, corn-fed Iowan I had to enlarge the gun to fit better into my grip.
• I wanted my gun to be more powerful than any other.  The bigger, the better.  On whose side would you want to fight?

With the reference picture taped to the pine-board, I used a sharp knife (my trusty 'ol Swiss) to perforate the wood along the major gun lines.  Once the wood was marked, I connected the dots with a pencil.

My original plan was to create the gun from five pieces:

1. A solid plywood core cut to the shape of the entire gun.  This was to give the gun the most strength and provide a medium to paste the different segments.
2. The top half of the gun (x2) consisting of the hood and chamber.  I cut out two of these, each a mirror of the other.  These were to be pasted to the top of the plywood cutout to provide the bulk of the gun.
3. The handle and grips of the gun (x2).  These were to be pasted to the plywood handle to comprise the contoured grips.

The pictures illustrate the different components as detailed above.  The chamber and handle components took the most patience to create.  To carve them, I first labeled the original template (see line drawings in picture #1 and numbers in picture #2) with numbers representing the depth of the carve.  A '1' represented a depth that required no initial carving and a '4' represented a depth that required the deepest cut.  It turned out that the only '4' I had was the barrel, and I chose to shape that after the gun was glued together (I've replaced the numbers in the picture as an example).  I used a similar procedure for the grips, but refrained from numbering as there was only two depths ('1.5' and '3').

All this may have just been an elaborate excuse to purchase a Dremel.  I highly recommend this rotary tool for jobs such as these.  However, I either received a defective Dremel or abused it such that it quit working after a few days of extreme carving.  It actually didn't die straight-out, but would only start spinning if I hand-spun the shaft with a wrench.  Well, here was another "convenient" excuse to return the "defective" Dremel and go to Sam's Club to get their Digital Dremel kit (with the flex-wand!).  Oh-yeah...

Using both the Dremel and a palm-sander, I smoothed out the edges and sanded-down the slopes of the top-half.  The Dremel wand was a lifesaver for sanding out the handle grips.
 

1)
2)
3)
 

Trigger Medium & Component Assembly

After cutting-out the components, I quickly realized that this gun would be far to wide with the full plywood core.  At this point, I still wanted to utilize the already cut-out components and figured the gun would be the perfect width if they were simply glued together (back-to-back).  Doing it this way, I would still need a medium to connect the handle to the gun.  I then decided to cut that medium out of the existing plywood core.  The plywood would now serve as  the trigger AND the medium to connect the assembled components.

For the picture, I cut-out two trigger-mediums to illustrate both the shape and the method I used to attach it.
 

Next, I thought it best to completely assemble the gun (glue the handle grips together, and then to the trigger medium) before the finishing sanding.  Doing it this way, I was able to wood-putty the cracks, gaps, and cutting mistakes.

The finishing sanding took a long time.  Not only did using the Dremel take a long time to get the outer edges level and even, but sanding the small cuts and craters was painfully slow with straight sandpaper.  At this point, I had to make myself quit.  I could have sanded that gun infinitely or until all I had left was a Derringer. 

The picture you see to the right was taken prior to the finishing sanding.  I regret I do not have an unpainted picture of the finished work.
 

Sealing & Painting

After I was happy (or convinced myself I was happy) with the sanding, I applied a coat of wood sealer.  I'm not sure if this is a necessary step, but it seemed a logical step.  I let the gun sit overnight after the sealing coat.

When the sealer was dry, it was time to apply the paint.  At first, I thought I would have to buy two paints.  A dark-grey for the base coat and a silver or gold for a misted-coat.  Luckily, I found a black-gold metallic paint (manufactured by Plasti-Kote^TM).  Seeing the initial results, it looks great.

After three coats of paint (sanding with fine steel wool between coats) I did a final sanding job using the same steel wool and some water.  I think this gave it a smooth finish that will release to the latex mold much better.
 

I decided to use a flexible mold for the gun.  I liked the idea of painting the mold on and peeling it off.  The picture to the right shows the 3rd coat of latex rubber.  I placed a fan (on low) next to it after each coat to expedite the drying so I could put more coats on during the day.  (Sophia, our 140 lbs St. Bernard/Bull Mastiff is pictured in the background.  I thought it was best to included her since this website is in her name...)

The latex mold failed spectacularly.  The model was simply too big and the latex not thick enough to hold shape.  I'll next try a plaster mold.

I'll spare this page the expletives I used when trying to make the plaster mold.  Because of my inexperience, and the fine shapes on the gun, I actually broke the gun taking it out of the mold.  It's being repaired now.  I don't know if I'll give it another go.

Coming soon... maybe some other year... Sorry.
 

You got the gun... you got to have the holster.  Because I was unable to find a full-clear view of the holster, much is improvised.  I luckily found a fantastic site (www.un4scene.com) that had a good-quality reference pic from the season 3 episode "Green-eyed Monster".

This reference picture comes from Combat Gerbil.  I wish I had this one before I started!

I cut each layer from paper and pasted them together with a glue stick.  Once the holster looked decent I took measurements.  From the measurements it appears I need a total of 1 1/2' X 2 1/2' of leather.  Let's see what I can find at the saddle & leather store...  Some decent black and brown scraps.  If I had more ambition, I may have dyed the brown... black.  Oh well, it will be dark at the party.

A fair warning, don't form fit the gun in the holster before test-wrapping it around your leg!  I did this and had to rip apart the leather glue to make more room for the gun.  Left a nice little scar in the leather.

Next, I went to the fabric and craft stores to get:

• Nylon webbing
• Side-pinching plastic clips
• fabric/leather glue (Fabri-Tack(TM))

The pictures should be fairly self-explanatory.  There are no stitches.  The webbing is glued onto the leather strap, the strap to the back of the holster.

Didn't find any spectacular reference pictures of the comm badge, so I faked it.  Here's the template I created.  I cut out the template and traced it onto a piece of 1/4" ply-wood...

I used the trusty Dremel to router out the screen inlay, and used, well... screen... for the screen.  The hardware store repairs window screens and let me have some scraps.  A little bit of the clear Fabri-Tack glue is used behind the screen.

Last... some pins attached to the back and we have ourselves some comm badges.  One badge's pin is laid out vertically to better attach to the sleeve of my wife's Zhaan costume.

I'll soon post the pictures of my wife and my costumes.  They turned out gorgeous.  Luckily, we found a talented lady living locally to create the garments (PK Vest and Zhaan's season 1 episode 1 outfit).  She was excited to take on the project and made sure they turned out beautiful.  Much thanks to her for the splendid works and endless enthusiasm...